Fitting the Essential French Jacket

 I woke up this morning determined to work on my blog after a four-month hiatus.

I have been working on fitting a jacket pattern and it has become a real challenge.  The pattern is the Essential French Jacket from Dana Marie Design Co.  The pattern offers lots of choices:  a buttoned front or a zippered front, patch pockets or welt pockets and can be lined or unlined.  I chose to fit the zippered jacket and make it unlined.  The pattern is described as “Two versions for an effortless fit” and says the “jacket goes together super fast.”  I don’t know about the jacket going together super fast, but I do know it hasn’t been an effortless fit for me!

 

I belong to a sewing group (Pattern Works) which is a part of the Lansing Clippers, American Sewing Guild.  Our group is currently working on fitting and sewing an unlined jacket.  I thought this jacket would be easy to fit and sew.  However, it has not been easy to fit and, perhaps, that is my own fault.  Maybe I expected too much from the pattern.  After all, a pattern is a guide for a garment that was designed so that many different shapes and sizes of bodies could use the guide to make a garment.  For most of us, no size pattern will fit our bodies perfectly.  We will have to make adjustments to the guide (pattern) to get it to fit comfortably and look nice.  Some of us will need more adjustments than others.

When fitting a pattern, I like to use a notebook and keep a record of all the changes I make to my muslin.  Then when I transfer the changes to my pattern, I won’t forget to include any.  It is a good thing I did that with this pattern.   I tried three sizes before I got to the best size for me.  I lost count of the muslins I made, but I know there were at least five. 

I struggled to get this pattern to fit, but I learned a lot along the way.  It is difficult to fit yourself but it can be done.  Some people take a picture of the back of the garment and then try to make adjustments until they get a good fit.  It is always easier if you have someone to help.  Maybe you know someone who also wants to learn to fit and you could fit each other. I had the benefit of belonging to the Pattern Works group.  I took my muslin to a meeting and the group assessed the fit and made recommendations for me.

The only way to really learn to fit is to do it.  With experience, it will get easier.  Prepare yourself by reading as much as you can and/or taking a class on fitting.  A good book on fitting is The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen.  There are lots of pictures of fitting issues and how to correct them.  Sarah also offers an online class called “Fitting Issues – Train Your Eye to Read Them”.  She fits a model and explains how to get rid of drag lines and folds.

After you have prepared yourself by reading, taking a class and practicing fitting, all you need is someone to fit and lots of patience!

I hope to be able to show you a picture of my completed “Essential French Jacket” in my next post.  Until then, happy fitting and sewing!

Judy 

 

 

Summary of Sewing A Core Wardrobe

Over the past year, I have been sewing a core wardrobe of twelve pieces that makes 80 outfits.  I took on this project in order to give a presentation to the Lansing Clippers American Sewing Guild Chapter about how to make a core wardrobe.

A core wardrobe is a set of essential articles of clothing that coordinate with each other to create many outfits.  A well-planned core wardrobe will allow you to always have something to wear in your closet and deciding what to wear will be easy!

You can create a core wardrobe by sewing one or by taking some articles from your closet and buying some others to coordinate with what you already have.  Here are some tips to help you.

1.    Choose two or three neutral colors, i.e. black, gray, navy, tan, white, etc, for your bottom pieces.  Bottom pieces are pants and skirts.

2.    Decide how many pieces will be in your wardrobe.  I chose twelve because that will give me many outfits if all pieces coordinate with each other.  

3.     Decide how many of those pieces will be bottom pieces (pants, capris, jeans, and skirts); how many will be top pieces (blouses, shirts, sweaters); and how many will be layer pieces (jackets and vests).  I chose four bottom pieces, five top pieces and three layer pieces.

4.    List your bottom pieces in a small notepad that will fit in your purse.  Take a crayon and mark the color each bottom piece.  If you already have fabric for the bottom pieces, staple or tape a small sample beside each listed piece.

5.    As you choose or sew your tops, make sure each one looks good with all your bottom pieces.  You should list each top along with a fabric sample.

6.    Then decide on your layer pieces.  Make sure each layer piece will coordinate with your top and bottom pieces.  List each layer piece in your notebook and attach a fabric sample.

I posted on this blog a picture of each of the twelve pieces in my core wardrobe as I completed them.  I did not explain how I coordinated each piece and got 80 outfits from them.  I will do that in this post.  I wanted to wait until I gave the presentation to the Lansing Clippers before I posted this summary.  Below are pictures of all twelve pieces divided into three groups: bottom pieces, tops, and layer pieces.

Bottom Pieces

                                                    

  

 

                                                                                    

Top Pieces

                                                                                                                       
 

                                                                                     

 Layer Pieces

     

                                                                                  

 If you make sure everything coordinates, you should have 80 outfits.  Here is how it worked for me:

My gray pants with each of the five tops     =      5 outfits

The black pants with each of the five tops   =      5 outfits

The grape jeans with each of the five tops   =      5 outfits

The grape jean skirt with each of the five tops = 5 outfits

                                                                     Total      = 20 outfits

I added the black jacket to each of those 20 outfits and got another 20 outfits.

I added the jean jacket to each of those 20 outfits and got another 20 outfits.

I added the vest to the each of those 20 outfits and got another 20 outfits.

                                                                                                      Total    =   60 outfits

Twenty plus Sixty equals a total of 80 outfits!

If you decide to create a core wardrobe, I suggest you make a list of your bottom pieces, top pieces, and layering pieces along with the colors of each.  That way, as you think things through, you can make changes as needed before you buy or sew any of the pieces.

If you are purchasing your pieces, you should use crayons to mark the colors beside each piece on your list.  You can take the list with you to shop to make sure any item you purchase will coordinate with the rest of your wardrobe.

If you are sewing your wardrobe, you can take the fabric samples with you when shopping for fabric for the next piece of your wardrobe.

A good rule to follow regarding adding pieces to a completed core wardrobe is to make sure you have at least three pieces that will coordinate with any new piece.  For example, if I want to add a red top to my core wardrobe, I have four pieces that will coordinate with the red top:  gray pants, black pants, black jacket, and black vest.   So, a red top would make a good addition to this wardrobe.

Have fun if you decide to create your own core wardrobe!

Judy

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last Piece of Core Wardrobe Completed

I finally completed the last piece of my 12-Piece Core Wardrobe.  It is a grape denim skirt made with the Tommie Jeans Skirt pattern from Style Arc.  I am relieved that all twelve pieces are completed.  Now I can concentrate on getting my visual aid and handouts ready for the presentation of the core wardrobe to the Lansing Clippers in September. 

The is my first time using a Style Arc pattern.  Style Arc is an Australian pattern company¸ so the wording in the instructions was a little different from the American patterns I usually use.  For example, the instructions for pressing a piece with the wrong sides together read “with right sides on the outer” and “zip” was used instead of zipper.   However, the instructions were clear and the pictures for each step in the process were very helpful. 

I was able to get the pattern fitted to me with only a couple of alterations.  I shortened the pattern four inches because the pattern was drafted for someone 5’6” and I am 5’2”.   I also shortened it a little more after the skirt was completed.  The only other alteration I made was at the waist.  That sounds simple enough, but there were a lot of pieces that were affected by that one alteration.  I had to alter the front and back skirt pieces, the right and left pocket facings, the pocket bags, the back yokes and the waistband.  Pictures of the skirt are shown below:

 

You might notice there is no button on the skirt.  That is because I couldn’t find a jeans button in my stash, so I ordered one online.  It will be a few more days before it gets here.  I have plenty of time to add the button and make a buttonhole after the button arrives.

After I give the presentation of the core wardrobe on September 16^th, I will post a summary of the wardrobe and show how to get 80 outfits from the twelve pieces. 

I hope your sewing projects are going well.  Summer is almost over, so it is time to think about what you want to sew to add to your fall/winter wardrobe.

Judy