Let's Fit a Tee Shirt Pattern

Did you give up making clothes for yourself because you could not get patterns to fit?  If so, you are not alone.  That has happened to many people.  However, there is no need to give up.  You can learn to fit patterns to your body.  Let’s start with something simple.  A tee shirt is a good first project to learn to fit a pattern.

First you need to find your size.  Forget about your “off the rack” size.   That will not work for a home sewing pattern.  Most sewing patterns are drafted to fit a woman who is 5’5” tall and wears a B-cup bra.  How many of you fit that description?  I don’t!  But don’t worry; you can fit the pattern to your body.  There is a learning curve, but you can do it.   

Although it is possible to measure and fit yourself, it is much easier if you get someone to help you.  Ask a friend who sews to help you.  Maybe you can help each other and the two of you would then be on your way to making clothes that fit much better than those you buy off the rack.

The first step is to take your measurements.  You will need upper bust, full bust, waist, full hip, and arm length measurement to make a tee shirt. 

The next step is to pick your pattern.  You have lots of choices.  You could pick one of the big four national brands (Simplicity, McCall, Butterick, or Vogue) or you might try one of the smaller, independent companies where you can download and print the pattern.  One of the independent companies is DIBY Club, LLC (Do It Better Yourself).  The website is https://doitbetteryourself.club/.  If you go to the website and click on “shop patterns” and then click on “free patterns”, you will find the Anything But Basic (ABB) tee.  That is a really good pattern with terrific instructions.  They explain how you can print the pattern on regular printer paper and then tape it together, or you can send it to another website to print on very large paper and mail it to you.  It also gives you the option of downloading it and taking it to a local print shop to be printed. 

Whatever pattern you choose, I suggest tracing it onto some type of paper to make another copy because your pattern could have a lot of changes after you make your alterations.  You don’t want to ruin your original pattern.  You can use doctor’s medical table paper or one of the pattern tracing fabrics such as Do-Sew.  If you use the pattern tracing fabric, you will be able to baste your pattern together to check the fit.  If you use the tissue paper that typically comes with a purchased pattern or the doctor’s medical table paper, you can pin the basic pieces together to check for fit.  If you use the tissue paper or doctor’s medical table paper, you will need to put small pieces of tape along the inside of the seam allowances so the paper doesn’t tear when you try on the pattern.

Once you have your pattern, you should compare your measurements with those on the pattern.  If you download the free ABB Tee from DIBY Club, they include a size chart.  Circle your measurements on the chart and then choose your size based on your upper bust measurement.  Don’t worry if your full bust is larger than the upper bust measurement.  You can do a full bust adjustment (FBA) later to fix that. 

Trim the pattern on the cutting lines and mark the seam allowances.  If you need to make adjustments in the length of the tee shirt, you can do that now or wait until later.  Pin or baste the front and back together at the shoulder seams and the side seams.    Try on the pattern and check to see if the back center line of the pattern is situated on your center back and if the side seams are aligned directly under your arms and down the side of your hips.  Check to see if the center front is aligned with the center of the front of your body.  If your bust is larger than the upper bust, the center front of the pattern will not reach your center front, but you will correct that with the FBA which will be done a little later.  However, measure the space from the pattern center front to center of your body.  That will be the amount you need to add when you do the FBA.  You should also mark the apex of your bust.  The apex is the fullest point of the bust.  You will need that mark when you do the full bust adjustment.

Now you need to make any adjustments needed for the back of the tee shirt.  These should be made before you do FBA or forward shoulder adjustments.  I can’t cover all adjustments in one posting, so I will cover a few and give you some resources for others.  Remember, sometimes there may be more than one way to correct a problem.  If you find that, choose the method that works best for you.  One good resource for fitting is the book Knits for Real People, Fitting and Sewing Fashion Knit Fabric by Susan Neall and Pati Palmer.  In that book, they cover how to adjust the pattern for a broad back, a round back, and a gap in the back armhole. 

I found an excellent tutorial on how to do a round back adjustment on Curvy Sewing Collective at https://curvysewingcollective.com/tutorial-how-to-do-a-high-round-back-adjustment/.   I was a little confused by the instructions for measuring the amount you need to add in step 1, but most people need about 5/8” so that might be a good starting point for you if you need this adjustment.  If you find that isn’t enough, you can always adjust the pattern some more before cutting your fabric.

If there is a gap in the back armhole, you can add a dart at the shoulder.  There is an excellent video at  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_ZMHeZTZRk that explains how to this.  The video is from Sew Essentials.  It is very easy to follow.

The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto explains how to do a broad back adjustment on pages 134 – 135.   The broad back adjustment is also explained on page 35 of the Knits for Real People book.

After you make all your back adjustments, then check to see if you need a forward shoulder alteration.  This is a fairly common adjustment needed today.  It is caused by sitting at computers and/or bending over looking at cell phones for long periods of time.  You will know you need this alteration if the front neckline pulls at your throat and the shoulder seam sits further back than your shoulder line.   You can correct this by redrawing the shoulder seam.  Start at the neck edge of the front pattern piece and angle over and down the amount needed to create a new shoulder seam on the front piece.  On the back of the pattern start at the neckline and angle up and over to the armscye the same amount as you did on the front piece.  You can add a piece of paper if you need it when you add your seam allowance to the new lines.  Your front and back should now look something like this.  The red lines are your seam lines.  Make sure you add a new seam allowances before you cut out your shirt.

 

Now you are ready to do the full bust adjustment (FBA).  You will need to mark three lines on the front piece of your pattern.

Line 1 is drawn from approximately 1/3 of the way up the armhole to apex and then straight down to the bottom of the shirt.  This line should be parallel to the center front line of the garment.

Line 2 is drawn from the side seam about where a dart would be if the garment had a dart and up to the apex.

Line 3 is drawn anywhere below the apex from the center front and perpendicular to Line 1.

 

Now cut on line 1 from the lower edge of the shirt to, but not through, the seam at the armhole.  Then make a cut from the outside edge of the armhole to the seam, but not through the seam.  This creates a hinge so you will be able to spread the cut edges of line 1.

Cut on line 2 up to line 1, but not through line 1.  This will leave a small hinge so that you can spread the edges of line 2.

Using pins or pattern weights to hold your pattern in place, pull line 1 apart until the two parts from the apex to the bottom of the shirt are parallel and the space between the two equals the amount you wish to add to the bust.  In this case, one inch was added to the pattern piece, so the two sides of line 1 are now 1” apart.  As you spread line 1 apart, line 2 opens up as well.  You can add a dart in the space or you may be able to ease the extra added to the seam if the knit you are using has enough stretch.  However, I find that for full busted women, a dart is often the better option.  It can be sewn at the side or you may move it later to armhole if you desire.

You will also notice one-half of the pattern piece is now longer than the other.  To fix this, line cut across line 3 and move the piece down to match the other side.  Make sure you keep both sides of line 1 parallel and equal distance apart. Fill in the three open spaces on the pattern piece with paper and tape in place.

 

Although this article will not answer all your questions about fitting, I hope it will get you interested in the process.  You can find answers to most fitting questions in the two books mentioned in this article or you can research almost any sewing question on the internet and get some good information.  You might also want to pursue a membership in a sewing organization such as the American Sewing Guild.  There is a chapter of the American Sewing Guild in Lansing, Michigan.  It is called the Lansing Clippers.  Their website is http://lansingclippers.com/ and their blog is https://lansingclipperssew.blogspot.com/.

Have fun with whatever you sew, but I hope you will try making a garment for yourself or someone else soon.

Judy

#howtofitapattern #sewing #howtofitateeshirtpattern #learntofitapattern

 

Time to Try Something Different

This past week I veered off the path of creating garments and tried my hand at a simple quilting project.  I was almost forced to do so.  Every year our sewing guild, the Lansing Clippers, sets a challenge for the members.  This year, the challenge was to sew a home dec project.  It is fun to participate in the challenge because there are rewards!  The most obvious reward is that of accomplishment, but there is also a prize awarded each year.  Everyone who participates has their name put in a drawing and the winner’s prize is usually a gift certificate to a fabric shop. 

I could have sewn something that did not involve quilting like a pillow, cushion, curtains, or some other decorative item for the home.  However, I haven’t done any quilting in years and decided I would try a small quilting project.  I decided to make a table runner.   The pattern I used was “Make It Anytime Table Runner and Placemats” by Carolyn’s Creative Designs.  The pattern was labeled “Quick Project!” and indeed it was. 

 

Although I am not good at putting colors together, I decided I was going to choose them myself.   Not knowing how this would turn out, I did not want to invest a lot of money.   Therefore, I went straight to the section of the fabric shop where the clearance cottons were displayed.    I chose fabrics that cost $3.97 and $5.97 a yard.  If my heart was set on particular colors and I was making a quilt, I might have been willing to pay the regular price of $12.00 or more, but the more inexpensive selection worked fine for my table runner.

After I pieced together the top of the table runner, I used Insul-Brite instead of regular batting to place between the top of the runner and back.  By doing this, I can place warm dishes on the it and not damage my table.  When I sew pot holders, I use a layer of cotton batting and a layer of Insul-Brite.  I did not want my table runner to be thick and bulky, so I only used the one layer of Insul-Brite.

After I sewed the pieces together and turned the runner right side out, I gave it a good press and then quilted the pieces together.  I stitched in the ditch around the individual squares and did a stippling stitch from my sewing machine around the outside strip. 

I found I really enjoyed doing this project.  It was fun and easy!  The pattern was well written which means it was easy to understand and follow.   

I hope you have fun with your next project.

Judy

 

 

Yikes, My Pants Don’t Fit!

I recently made two pants while at the Lansing Clippers sewing retreat in Shipshewana, Indiana.  I cut them from the same pattern I have used for several years.  However, I lost a little weight after the start of covid, so I altered the pattern at that time.  I tried them on today in order to turn up the hems on them.  What a shock!  I could barely zip them up and it was almost impossible to sit down.   Looks like I found the weight I lost! 

Fall is here and winter is fast approaching, so I need pants.  Do I reach into the back of my closet and retrieve the pants I was wearing two years ago or do I make new ones?  I struggled with that question before I decided to give myself a few weeks to see if I can lose those pounds once again.

This is probably a good time to inspect my wardrobe and see what additions I need to make.  I will try on some of my older pants and see if I can make them do until I can either make new, larger pants or lose some weight.  This will also be a good time to check my shirts and blouses to make sure they fit and coordinate with the pants I have. I   My jackets and coats need to be checked for wear and tear.  Maybe some of those need to be replaced, too. 

Actually, this is a good time of year for all of us to check our wardrobes to see what additions we need.  That way, we can plan what to sew instead of just sewing whatever gets our attention.  If we plan ahead, we can have a more diverse wardrobe with more pieces that coordinate. 

If you are moving your summer clothes to a different closet and moving your fall and winter clothes back into your main closet, this is an excellent time to check to see if any of your garments need repair.  Put those that need buttons sewed, zippers replaced or any other repairs in your sewing room with a sticky note detailing what needs to be done. 

I did make one top while I was at retreat and it still fits.  I made it from a piece of  brown sweater knit I purchased from Zinks Fabric in Ligonier, Indiana.  A picture of that is shown below.

 

Well, I wish you luck in going through your wardrobe.  I hope you will plan to sew some exciting new pieces for yourself. 

Judy

#sewing #planforadditionstowardrobe

 

Bored with Your Wardrobe?

Are you bored with your current wardrobe?  Are you also bored with your sewing projects?  I found that I was bored with my sewing  projects and most of those projects ended up in my wardrobe, so that made my wardrobe boring as well!  I sewed basically the same pieces of clothing all the time; usually, pants, capris, tee-tops and shirts.  I used the same patterns most of the time and the only thing that changed was the fabric. 

Finally, this summer I started to be more observant of what others were wearing.  I noticed that my friends who do not sew were wearing items of clothing that had scallops somewhere on them.  One friend had capri pants that were scalloped at the hems.  I told her I liked them and thought I would try to make some.  Before I could get them cut out, I noticed another friend with a dress that had a scalloped neckline.   Then another friend came to church with a top that was scalloped at the bottom hemline and also at the sleeve hemline.  Then it dawned on me.  I was witnessing a fashion trend!   

I decided to participate in this fashion trend.  I had some hot pink fabric purchased a few months ago during one of my trips to Zink’s Fabrics in Ligonier, Indiana.  I also had a pattern for capris that I have used lots of times I knew I could use this pattern, but I would have to change the pattern to accommodate the scallops at the hemline of the legs.  I decided to do that by adding a facing at the bottom edge of each leg.  I traced both the front and back pieces from the bottom edge up to 2.75 inches from the bottom.  This would be the facing.

It is always best to make a sample before cutting out the entire pattern.  I made my sample by cutting out only the bottom 5 inches or so of one front and one back piece as well as the front and back of one facing.   I sewed the seams on the sample capri together and then sewed the seams of the facing.  Then placing right sides together, I pinned the facing to the capri sample.

Next, I needed to make chalk marks for the scallops.  To do that, I needed something round to trace to make the scallops.  I decided to use a small plastic thread spool cap from my sewing machine.  I traced around one-half of the spool cap to make the scallops.  I then sewed on the chalk line using a stitch of 2.5 on my machine.  I was able to get the scallops sewn, but it was difficult and the scallops were not smooth. 

I felt the first attempt was not perfect, but it was good enough to make a couple of changes and try it on my pants.  So, I sewed the pants together and then added the facing.  This time, I used a larger plastic thread cap to trace the scallops and changed the stitch length on my machine to 1.0 – 1.5.   I used the 1.0 to sew the scallops where they curved the most.  It was easier to get around the curve in a smoother manner by using the very small stitch length.  I knew I would not be ripping out stitches this small so, I hoped for the best outcome!  Once I trimmed the scalloped edge, I knew that although this attempt was not perfect either, I could live with it.  If I make more scalloped capris for next summer, I will definitely try using a more gradual curve between the scallops.  Pictures of the finished product are shown below.

 

I showed the capris with two different tops that I might be able to wear with them.  The navy blue print has small pink flowers, so I think that would work.   I like the pink tee top.  It is maybe one shade lighter than the pants.  I am concerned that if I pair those two together, it may be too much of a bold color.

The one thing I learned from this experience is there are lots of ideas or fashion trends we can use to sew items for our individual wardrobes.  Take a look around you to see what others are wearing.  Also, look at the stock in high end stores or just go browsing at some of the online stores.  It doesn’t cost anything to look.  Once you have an idea in mind, you can always hack a pattern to make it work for you.  We just need to pay attention to the trends as they develop and then decide if they are trends that we like and would feel comfortable wearing. 

I hope you will try adding something new to your sewing soon!

Judy

#sewing #addfashiontrendstoyourwardrobe #patternhacks

 

Euphoria!  My Baby Lock Cover Stitch Machine Finally Arrived

I was beginning to think it was all a dream.  I purchased a Baby Lock Euphoria Cover Stitch Machine, but it was back ordered.  I was told it would arrive in three months and then I was told it would be an additional two months.  But, I finally have it and I absolutely love it! 

True, I could have survived without it because I own a Baby Lock Ovation which is a serger that also does the cover stitch and the chain stitch.  The Euphoria only does those two stitches.   Although I will still need to use my serger along with the Euphoria,  I won’t need to stop to rethread and change the settings on the serger every time I need to switch to a chain stitch or a cover stitch.  Making garments will be easier and faster.  Euphoria is an apt name for this machine because it really does make me happy!

After I unpacked my machine, I threaded it and got it right the very first time!  Threading is really easy.  I wanted to make something right away.  I have a red and white skirt that I made several years ago, but seldom wear because I don’t have a top that goes with it.  I decided to search my fabric stash for a piece of white knit to make a top to wear with the skirt.  I found three pieces of white knit.  I decided to prewash all three and then decide which one to use.  I should have gone directly to the washing machine and started a load with those three pieces.  But no, instead I did something really, really stupid. 

I picked up a piece of aqua knit fabric and decided I would throw that in the wash with the white pieces.  Yes, I knew better, but I told myself I would use one of Tide’s Color Catchers and that would protect the white fabric from any run-off of the aqua color.   Those Color Catchers have always worked for me, but not this time.   I ended up with three pieces of white knit fabric and each piece had light aqua blotches all over them!  I was able to take the largest piece and by cutting around the blotches, I was able to get a shirt cut from the piece.  I wasted a lot of fabric, but at least I was able to get a shirt from it.  I am not sure what I will do with the other two pieces.  I may try to bleach them.

Have you ever done something stupid like that?  You know your actions could result in a bad outcome, but you proceed anyway.  I hope I have learned my lesson.  I may use Tide’s Color Catchers again, but only if everything in the wash has already been laundered at least once.

After I cut the shirt, I realized it needed a little something extra to give it some pizazz.  I decided to add some decorative stitches down the front using red thread.   I chose a small flower design to place down the middle front of the shirt and a small leaf design to place on each side of the flowers.  I placed a strip of light-weight fusible tricot fusing down the wrong side of the front of the shirt wide enough to accommodate all three rows of decorative stitching.  That made the shirt stable enough to hold the decorative stitching. 

I used my sewing machine, serger and cover stitch machine to put the shirt together.  I used the sewing machine to sew the neckband onto the neckline and also to baste the sleeves into the shirt.  I used the serger to sew the shoulder seams and the sleeves after they were basted.  I also sewed the side seams together with the serger.  I used the cover stitch machine to sew the neckband from the right side to hold it in place and finish the seam.   I hemmed the shirt using a cover stitch.  I finished the hem on the sleeves with the decorative leaf design from my sewing machine.

The picture below shows my tee-top with the red skirt.  There are also pictures of the decorative stitching including two closeups.

 

 

I am happy with my new shirt and my Euphoria Cover Stitch machine.  I can’t wait to start a new project and learn more ways to use my Euphoria!

If you are working on a new project, don’t let a bump in the road discourage you.  Look for solutions to your problems and keep on sewing and learning!

Judy

 #sewing #usingaserger #coverstitchmachine #BabylockEuphoriaMachine #decorativestitching

 

 

Constructing a Tee Top on a Serger

As I indicated in my last post, I cut a knit tee-top and planned to construct it using my serger and not my sewing machine.  That was a great plan, but it did not work exactly as I planned.  First of all, I did not have enough energy to make a top in one day as I could have done previously.  Everything went much slower than anticipated.  And it was not all smooth sailing!

I started by serging together the shoulder seams which was the same starting point I would have used when sewing with my sewing machine.  I cut my pattern with a seam allowance of 5/8”.  I found the marking on my serger that showed me where the outer edge of my fabric needed to be for a 5/8” seam allowance when the serger was set for a 4-thread overlock stitch.  I held the seams together with small plastic clips instead of pins because it was easier to remember to remove them before they reached the cutting blade than to see the pins and remove them.   This was the first of several steps that slowed down the construction process.  If I had sewn the seams on my sewing machine, then finished each side of the seam with the serger, no pins or clips would have been necessary.  At the same time I was clipping the seams together, I had to add a strip of knit stay tape to stabilize the shoulders to prevent stretching.  I had to position it on the right spot so that the seam would go through the stay tape to hold it in place.  It was a little unnerving when I stepped on the foot pedal and starting serging and cutting off 3/8 “ of fabric from the seam allowance at the same time.  If I cut off too much, there was no way to put it back on!  The process of simply serging together the shoulder seams felt like it took forever!

After the shoulder seams, I was ready to finish the neckline.  I realized this, too, was going to be a problem.  All knits are not equal.  Some have more stretch than others, so the length of the neckband varies even on the same pattern due to the stretch factor.  I usually begin by taking the circumference of the neckline at the seamline and multiplying it by 0.75.  The first neckband I cut was a little short, so my neckline had puckers.  Fortunately, I decided at the last minute to baste the neckband onto the neckline with my sewing machine.  I am so glad I did!  If not, I would have serged off 3/8” of my seam allowance and then had to rip off the band and resew it.  It was a little easier to remove the basting stitches and cut a new band. 

Once the band was serged, my next step was to finish the raw edge of the band with a cover stitch.  This would also hold the band in place.  I had not set my serger for a cover stitch in at least a year, so I knew it would take some research to recall how to do it.  I started by looking at the “Quick Reference Threading Guide” for my Baby Lock Ovation serger.  I followed the directions for the “Cover Stitch – Right Narrow”.  The instructions were clear so I was successful in setting everything up except threading of the two needles.  I inserted needles C-2 and C-3, but I could not tell from the picture how to thread those two needles.  My friend, Stoney, was no longer available for me to call to figure out how to make these hi-tech machines work!  I was forced to go on-line and look for a video that show me how to thread the needles.  I watched the first video I found about 7 – 8 times before I gave up.  The lady gave great instructions for setting up the cover stitch, but every time she described how to thread the needles, she held her hand over the chain/cover needle thread guide and I could not see how she got the thread into the guide.  I finally gave up and the next day I continue my search to try to find someone else who had a video on the subject.  Fortunately, I found one and she turned the machine around where the guide could clearly be seen and kept her hand out of the way.  At last I understood and was able to thread the needles for the cover stitch!  My neckline was not perfect, but it is wearable.

I followed a similar procedure to install the sleeves.  I basted them into the garment and then serged them.  I also serged the side seams with no problems. 

Next, I ironed on 1” strips of fusible light-weight interfacing to the edges of the sleeves to stabilize the hems and 1 ¼” strips to the bottom edge of the garment.  I turned up the hems and pressed them into place.  With the right side of the garment up, I placed the bottom hem under the needles where I thought left needle would just catch the top of the hem.  However, I misjudged and it went into the fabric above the hem.  This caused the fabric to pucker and the hem was a mess.  After about 6-8 inches, I stopped and ripped out the stitches.  I tried again, but it still did not look good.  Again, I ripped out stitches. 

I decided to try the cover stitch-wide and took out the C-2 needle and moved it to the C-1 location.   The knit I used was very light-weight and thin.  I think this was part of my problem.  I thought if the needles were spaced further apart, it might help.  The third time was the charm.  It worked well.  At least well enough that the garment is wearable!

Shown below are pictures of the inside side of the garment as well as a picture of the outside of the finished garment. 

 

The pictures shown below show the inside of a garment with the seams finished with a serger after the entire garment was constructed using a sewing machine.  The serger was used only to finish the seams.

As you can tell, this was not a speedy process for me.  I still have a lot to learn about different serger techniques, but one thing I know for sure.  The way to learn is to keep trying and I intend to do just that!   I hope each of you will keep sewing, serging, and learning!

Judy

#makeateeshirtusingserger #coverstitchmachine #usecoverstitchforneckband #sewing #sewingproject