Angela Wolf Skinny Jean Class

Recently I enrolled in the Angela Wolf Skinny Jean Class.  No, I do not plan to make jeans that look like I was poured into them!  At my age and size, that would not be a good look; however, I am interested in making well-fitting jeans.  Although I have made jeans in the past, I wanted to learn some tips and techniques from Angela.  I have never taken a class from her, but I did hear her speak and do a trunk show for the Bishop Sewing Group a few years ago.  So, I was excited when I learned she was offering an on-line live class.

I downloaded the pattern, which was included in the price of the class.  I do not like to tape all the pieces of a pattern together after downloading and printing them on 8 ½” x 11” pieces of paper, but I did it.  The problem is that after all the sheets of paper are taped together, there is no good way to fold and store them for future use.   I took my hip and waist measurements and traced a combination of two sizes on pattern paper;  one size for my waist and another for my hips.  

I really wanted a pattern that would store easily, so I got permission from Angela Wolf to take the pattern to Staples and have a copy printed on one big sheet of paper.  They rolled it up for me, so I can easily store it now until I need to trace another pattern for other jeans.

Angela suggested using a stretch denim with 2% - 3% spandex.  I found some at JoAnn Fabrics that I think will work.  However, I wanted to make sure the pattern fits before I cut into that fabric.  I searched my stash for fabric I could use to make a muslin.  Obviously, I couldn’t use muslin or some other cotton.  I needed something with some stretch.  I found some denim in my stash that had some stretch although I had no idea exactly what the contents of the fabric were.  Also, there was not enough fabric to make long pants.  I had to shorten the pattern and make capri pants.  I think that will work.  I should be able to tell if the pattern fits in the waist and hips.  I can adjust the width of the legs at the knees after I cut the pattern.

After I cut the fabric, I basted the capri pants together without the waistband.  I discovered the pants were too big in the waist and hips.  I took in the amount necessary and then made the adjustments on my pattern. 

I removed the basting and sewed the yokes and back legs together.  I topstitched the seams in the yoke and down the center back.  I prepared one of the back pockets by adding three rows of decorative stitching and then I sewed a mirror image of the stitching on the other pocket.  I added a monogram for Chicken Little on the back left pocket.    Then I positioned the pockets on the back and top stitched them with a stretch triple straight stitch using regular thread, not jeans thread.   A picture is shown below.

 

After finishing the back of the pants, I worked on the front.  I sewed and inserted the front pockets with the linings and facings.  Then I tackled the fly front.  I have sewn fly fronts on most of my pants for many years.  I thought it would be a quick and simple project, but I was wrong.   I attempted to follow the instructions in the video lesson, but apparently, I failed miserably.  I discovered when I unzipped the front that it did not open!  I attached the second side of the zipper to the fly facing.  That side was sewn twice, so I had double trouble when it came to ripping it out.  Once that was accomplished and resewn, I proceeded to sew the double rows of top stitching around the fly opening.  I did that with the stretch triple-stitch.  When using a triple stitch, you really have to be careful when sewing a curve like the one at the bottom of the fly.  The stitch sews forward, then back, and then forward again.  When sewing a curve with that stitch it is easy to get off the original sewing line as you try to maneuver around a curve.  I now understand that well because I ripped out two rows of the stretch triple-stitch three or maybe four times before I talked myself into believing the last attempt would look just fine as long as I wear my shirt on the outside of the pants!  I will be sure to practice sewing with the triple-stitch on a curve before making my next pair of jeans.

After my struggle with the fly front, I basted the side seams together.   Then I made the belt loops and pinned one end of each right sides of the loops to the right side of the pants at the waist.  After preparing the waistband, I basted it to the waist and once again checked the fit of the pants.   

Once I was satisfied with the fit, I sewed the side seams with a 2.5 straight stitch and finished each seam with the serger.  I pressed each of the side seams to the back of the pants.  To hold my front pockets in place, I did a top stop using the stretch triple-stitch from the waist at each side seam down to the bottom of each front pocket. 

I sewed the waistband and facing together and pressed.  Then I ran a basting stitch at the lower edge of the facing at the seam allowance.  I pressed that edge under.   I attached the waist band to the waist, catching one end of each belt loop into the seam as I sewed.  I pressed the band again and pinned it on the right side making sure I included the edge of the facing from the back.   Then I topped stitched around the top, bottom and ends of the waistband using the stretch triple stitch.    

I used a jeans button for the waistband and made a keyhole buttonhole.  Then I hemmed the pants using the stretch triple stitch and my pants were finally completed!  Pictures are shown below.

 

It took most of the month to complete this project.  Part of the reason was there were no written instructions to follow for this class.   I had to keep going back to the class videos to remember how to sew part of the jeans.  That process was made more difficult by problems with my computer and internet.  I think Angela Wolf plans to provide written instructions after the class formally ends tomorrow.  That should make the process of sewing more jeans a lot easier.  Also, I think I have most of my computer and internet problems solved.  Sewing and communicating with others should now get easier!

I highly recommend this class to anyone who wants to learn to sew jeans or wants to improve their jeans-making skills.  Angela Wolf is a great instructor and really makes sure you get your money's worth from her class.

How are your sewing projects going?  Don’t give up if you have set-backs!  All of us have those at one time or another.  Just keep trying and persevere. 

Judy