Drafting a Different Neckline for a Tee Top

Recently, I decided to make another knit top, but this time I wanted to make something a little bit different.  This one would be for the fall and winter season with long sleeves.  I wanted a different neckline; one that was not round with a binding.  I have been experimenting a little with drafting changes to my basic tee top pattern, so I looked through Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong for ideas.  On page 426 I found directions for drafting a wing collar and placket.  As usual, the book gives two designs; one with instructions and one without.   I chose design 1 with instructions.  The placket had straight lines and a rectangular shape.  The wing collar had angled lines.

The instructions for drafting the design were straightforward and easy to follow.  There were even instructions about how to cut out space from the front of the original pattern to make room to insert the wing collar and placket.   As usual, there were no instructions about how to sew the placket and collar and insert it into the opening in the original pattern.  And there were no instructions about how to finish the back neckline.  I made a facing for the back and attached it to the shoulder seam.   I could do those things because I have experience in sewing.  Without that experience I would not have not known how to proceed after I had the drafting done.

Pictures of my new shirt are shown below.

 

I learned some lessons from this experience:

Lesson #1:  Always make a muslin.  I did not do this.  I cut into my fabric after I drafted the piece and hoped for the best.  A muslin would have offered me the opportunity to plan ways to finish the inside of the garment where I added the placket and the back facing.  How I finished the inside was okay, but I could have made it better if I had sewn a muslin first. 

Lesson #2:  Take your height into consideration when drafting the piece.  Remember, the pattern was probably drafted for a 5’ 6” person.  I am shorter than that; therefore, the placket should probably have been 2 – 4 inches shorter.  I can wear the garment as it is, but I will definitely shorten it when I use it again.

I would like to try to make Design 2 on page 426 of the book, Patternmaking for Fashion Design, but I am not sure I can figure that one out without any instructions.  The placket has a curved bottom, which I could do; however, I am not sure how to do the double round collar.  Maybe I will see if the members of the Pattern Works Neighborhood Group can help me figure this one out.

Good luck with any of your sewing projects.  Remember, you don’t know if you can do something unless you try!

Judy