The Kayla Shirt

I recently took an online class for learning how to fit a shirt pattern.  The class was taught by Alexandra Morgan from In-house Patterns Studio.  I took the class because I needed a new shirt pattern before I make a shirt for the 12-piece core wardrobe that I committed to make and show at a sewing guild meeting next year.  However, I have been contending with a series of illnesses the last several months, so I haven’t sewn much.

I knew when I signed up for the class that I did not have much time or energy to give to the project.   I also knew Ms. Morgan only gives the class once a year, so I decided to go for it and do the best I could.  It is a class that I can reference as often as I like, even after the class ends.  Even if I did not finish in the regular time-frame, I could still finish the shirt at my own pace and have the material contents to reference later

I tried to keep up as the live lessons over Zoom were presented, but I eventually fell far behind.  I did finally complete the lessons after the live sessions were over and made a muslin that I used to fit the Kayla pattern.  The lessons were very detailed and covered each fitting alteration in the sequence that needed to be followed. 

I made sure to trace all the markings on the pattern onto my first and second muslins.  It was helpful during the fitting process to also transfer the horizontal balance lines to the muslins.  Those lines made it easier to see where the fitting problems were and how to keep the alterations on balance so that the shirt could be cut on the straight of grain.

I made all the alterations needed in the order suggested by Ms. Morgan.  I did the length adjustments first: center back to waist, center back to hip and overall length.  Next, I did the contour adjustment (cup size adjustment).  Then the width adjustments were done:  shoulder width, across back width and across front width.  The last adjustments were the girth adjustments:  high hip, low hip, hem girth, and bicep girth.

I knew it was important to write down all the alterations to the muslin as they were made.  Then I could make those same changes to the pattern and would have a workable pattern to use to cut my fashion fabric.

After recording all the changes onto the pattern, I cut my fashion fabric and made the shirt.  I like the fit of the shirt, so I will add it to my 12-piece core wardrobe that is now underway.  After I complete all 12 pieces, I will show the wardrobe and explain how the pieces translate into many outfits.

A picture of the shirt is shown below.

I hope your sewing adventures are going well!

Judy