Serger Project

Usually, I sew almost every day.  This spring and summer have been very different for me.  Because of a medical condition, I have done very little sewing.   In fact, I have not sewn a single stitch in more than 4 weeks.  I am still recovering from surgery, but I think I am almost ready to begin sewing again!

During that recovery time, I tried to mentally plan my next sewing projects.  I tossed around several ideas including making another purse and a couple of jackets.  Instead, I settled on the idea of learning to put my serger to better use.  I use my serger mainly to finish seams on the garments I sew using my sewing machine.  A serger will do much more than that!  I have a BabyLock Ovation and I plan to learn more about everything it will do including the cover stitch  I have used that stitch occasionally to hem tee-tops.  I also made a purse with my serger a couple of years ago.  That was fun and I was able to incorporate a lot of different serger techniques while making the purse.  A picture of the purse is shown below.

 

If I can make a purse with my serger, I know I can make a garment with it; not just finish the seams.  So, I am going to try to get in the habit of using my serger more to construct garments.  I plan to cut out a couple of knit tee-tops and a couple of woven pajama bottoms and start with those.  I may need to do a little research before I start because I already have a question about how I would insert the elastic into the waist of the pajama bottoms.  I know I have an elastic insertion foot for my serger, but don’t remember how to use it.  I will need to brush up on that technique before I begin the pajamas.  My goal is to try to construct the garments without using the sewing machine.  I am also going to time my work to convince myself that it is actually faster than constructing the garment on a sewing machine and finishing the seams on the serger. 

The first thing I needed to do to prepare for this project was to locate exactly where my fabric should be placed under the needle in order to get the correct seam allowance.   I read my Ovation Instruction and Reference Guide and found that when using the left overlock needle (0-1), for either a 3 or 4-thread overlock seam, the second mark on the cutting blade cover indicates a 5/8” seam allowance from the edge of the fabric to the first needle (the O-1 overlock needle).  With the fabric in this location, the blade cuts off 3/8” and leaves a perfect 1/4“seam.  If I use a pattern that calls for a ¼”seam, I position the edge of the fabric against the edge of the serger blade and the serger will sew a ¼”seam without cutting off any fabric.

I am looking forward to this project for at least three reasons.  The first is I should become more proficient at using my serger.  The second is I may be able to construction garments in less time than I do now.  And the third is I enjoy learning something new and if that something new is connected to constructing garments, that is really a bonus!

I will let you know how this project goes.  In the meantime, I hope you will be successful with whatever sewing projects you do!

Judy

 

 

How to Save Time Sewing

It is the end of May and now the busiest time of the year begins, for me anyway.  This is the time of year that requires more time in the yard and garden.   It is also the time when I preserve food and put unbaked pies in the freezer.  There are more events that most of us attend during the summer months and there are many more family activities.   I think it is harder to make time for sewing during these months.   With this in mind, I decided it would be a good time to talk about ways to save time when sewing. 

The first thing I immediately associate with saving time is an organized sewing space.   Keeping my sewing room organized is probably my biggest problem.  It is surprising just how fast that little six-inch ruler or the seam ripper I keep by my sewing machine can disappear.  I think all my sewing notions must have invisible feet because they keep running away!  It takes precious time away from my sewing when I have to stop to look for these items.  Frequently, I have to stop sewing when I am making a tee top to search for the stay-tape I use in the shoulder seams.  That search requires looking in almost every drawer in the room before I find it.  I know how to remedy that problem.  I can sort each drawer; put like items in one drawer; and place a label with a list of the contents on the outside.  That job goes on my “To Do List”.  I know if my friend, Stoney, is looking down from the other side, she is saying to herself, “That will never happen!”  Stoney was a very organized person, but unfortunately, she did not leave that trait behind for me.  Oh, well, I can at least try to make it happen.

Make sure your sewing machine is working properly before beginning a project.  The sewing machine is like any of us.  It needs to go to the doctor for a checkup occasionally.  It may need a professional cleaning, a tension check and perhaps even oil, although not all machines need oil now.  You can make the need for these checkups less frequent, if you take good care of your machine.  You can do that by keeping a cover on your machine to prevent dust from getting inside it and by cleaning your machine frequently.  Check your owner’s manual to see how to clean the bobbin area.  Keeping lint and dust out that area will keep your machine humming.  I read somewhere that a good rule is to clean the bobbin area after using three or four bobbins of thread.  I don’t really count the bobbins I use, but I do clean the bobbin area frequently.  If I am sewing flannel or some other fabric with lots of fuzz, I clean even more frequently.

Read your pattern from beginning to end before you start a project.  That, too, is easier said than done.  If you are like me, you have been sewing for a long time and don’t want to be bothered or bored with doing that.  So, at least glance through the pattern to make sure there are no surprises.  Make sure the pattern doesn’t use a technique that you are not familiar with or just don’t want to use.  You may be able to use an alternative method, but you need to know about it in order to plan for it.  So, check out the pattern before you begin. 

Gather all the supplies you need to do the project and have them easy to reach as you need them. 

Make sure your cutting area is completely cleared.  You may need the entire area to lay out the fabric and pattern.  You will waste time if you have to stop and remove items to give you more room.  I hope you understand what I am talking about.  Surely, I am not the only one who has a habit of placing items on my cutting surface that I intend to come back to later and put them in the place they belong.  Also, I often find those sewing notions with the invisible feet hiding in this area underneath something else!

I don’t know about you, but I hate cutting out interfacing!  I make it a little quicker and easier by cutting the interfacing last.  After I cut and mark all the pieces from the regular fabric, I look at the pieces that need interfacing and cut a piece of fabric large enough for all of them.   I cut a piece of interfacing slightly smaller and iron it onto the wrong side of the fabric piece.  Then I cut out each piece and it is ready to sew.  It is a lot easier to apply the interfacing first and then cut the individual piece than it is to cut a small item from the fabric; then one from the interfacing and then iron the two together.  I may waste a small amount of interfacing, but it is worth it to me.

 Use the right needle for the fabric.   For most woven fabrics, I use a size 70, 80, or 90 Schmetz needle; the heavier the fabric, the larger size the needle.  For knits, I use either a stretch needle or a microtex needle.  The only sure way to know if you have the right needle for the fabric is to try a few stitches on a scrap of your fabric.  Doing this simple step will save you time and frustration!  It is no fun to start a project and need to stop and rip out a lot of bad stitches caused by the wrong needle.  There is a lot of good information on needles on the internet.  If you search for "How to pick the correct sewing needle", an article on the Schmetz website will pop up.  It tells you everything you need to know to pick the correct needle.  

None of these time-saving tips will help you unless you actually go to your sewing space and begin to sew.  If you have trouble finding time to do that, I suggest you make a “sewing appointment” with yourself.  Choose a date and time and put it on your calendar.  Let your family know you will not be available during that specified time.   Explain to them that you need a little “me time” to get some sewing done.  They may benefit from the appointment because you might be making a project for them.  If you have small children, you may need to schedule your sewing appointment during their nap time or after they go to bed at night.  Schedule the time whenever it is best for you and your family, but do it!  That may be the only way you get to sew this summer.

I haven’t sewn much myself lately, but I did finish a bright pink tee top.  I added an embroidery design to the lower right front.  After I completed the design, I gathered all my supplies and put them in my sewing bag to take to a friend’s house to sew.  There are six of us who meet once a month to sew.  I cut a length of light weight iron-on interfacing to use in the bottom hem and the sleeve hems.  Unfortunately, I forgot to put it in the sewing bag.  It doesn’t help to have your supplies ready if you don’t have them within easy reach!  My friend was able to provide me with a roll of interfacing that was the perfect width for the hems.  I was able to complete the project after all.  A picture is shown below.

I hope you can prioritize your responsibilities and activities so you can include some time for sewing this summer!

Judy

 

 

 

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly of My Capri Jeans

As soon as I sewed the last stitch on my capri jeans, I felt a sense of relief.  That meant I successfully completed the Angela Wolf Skinny Jean Class and the garment I sewed in the class was also complete.  I quickly asked my husband to take a picture of the garment (front and back) and I included those pictures in my previous post on this blog.  I should have taken a closer look at those pictures.  A closer look would have revealed the good, the bad, and the ugly of the garment. 

Let’s start with the good.  The front picture revealed a pretty good fit of the jeans – not perfect, but okay for the first attempt with the pattern.  It looks like the rise is a little lower than I like.  However, a close look reveals I learned a lot.  I now know that I can use regular sewing thread instead of jeans thread for top stitching if I use the stretch triple stitch.  I also learned to use a decorative stitch on the belt loops and I learned different ideas to decorate the back pockets.   I especially like the idea of adding the Chicken Little monogram on the back left pocket. 

Now for the bad.  The back picture revealed a lot of diagonal folds in the legs.  As some of you know, the folds usually point to the problem.  In this case, I think the problem was the width of the legs were too wide in the back.  I have a flat derriere and don’t need the extra room in the back of the legs.   Also, I think the rise in the back was a little low, too.

The ugly is an entirely different story!  I don’t think the jeans are ugly at all.  However, the front and back pictures are really ugly because I had my shirt tucked inside the waist.  I never wear my shirts that way.  My muffin top is much too large for that!  I tucked the shirt inside so the pockets and belt loops could be seen. 

After I took a closer look at my project, I wondered if there was an adjustment I could still make to the back of the legs.  I was limited with what I could do because the inseams were top stitched with the stretch triple stitch.  The side seams were also top stitched from the waist down to the bottom of the front pockets.  It would be almost impossible to rip out all those triple stitches without damaging the fabric.  I decided to take in what I could on the side seams from just below the front pockets to just above the hem on the legs.  At the widest point I took in ½ inch on the seam.  That means at that point I was able to get rid of one inch from each leg and then taper up to the bottom of the front pockets and taper down to just above the hemline.

I took new pictures of the front and back of the capri jeans.  They aren’t perfect, but that is the best I can do for this garment.  I will adjust the pattern before I use it again.

 

Don’t forget to take a close look at any garment you make to see if you like the fit before you finish the garment.  Adjustments are a lot easier in the early stages of sewing.  If you are using a pattern for the first time, make sure you baste the basic pieces together to check the fit before you sew it together using regular stitches.  Also, don’t forget to take pictures when it is basted together and take a really close look to see if you are happy with the fit.  I hope you will learn from my mistakes.

Good luck with your sewing projects!

Judy