Dave's Shirt  

When I decided to sew a shirt for my husband, I remembered fitting one for him several years ago.  I got distracted and put everything away to sew a different project.  I found the pieces of the shirt already cut and draped over a hanger in the closet.  A plastic envelope with the small pieces and a little extra fabric was attached to the hanger.  I also found the pattern which was Kwik Sew 3883.  It took a while to look at the pattern and pieces to determine what I had done in 2014 when I began the shirt.  It looked like I added a little to the sides to make sure the shirt covered his middle as well as a little to the yoke for his rounded back.  Unfortunately, I did not keep a record of the alterations I made to the pattern. 

I did a trial fitting before going any further.  I basted one piece of the yoke to the back and then basted the fronts to the back at the shoulders and side seams.  The shirt fit fine around his body if I used a quarter inch seam allowance.  There was not enough seam allowance for a French seam.   I would have preferred a larger seam allowance, but could not do anything to rectify that after the fabric was cut.  The ¼ inch seams will be okay for this test shirt.  I can change the seam allowances for the next one.  Then I will make a copy of the pattern with tag board.    I finished the side seams using my serger. 

The shirt I cut had a 16 ½ inch neck.  I may increase the next shirt to a 17 ½ inch neck.  I will see how it feels and looks when he wears the shirt and then make that decision. 

The instructions in Kwik Sew #3883 were clear and easy to understand.  I sewed the shirt exactly as indicated in the instructions.  I have learned a few shirt techniques from classes over the years, but I could not use them for this shirt because the pieces were already cut and I did not have enough fabric to re-cut the pieces.  I can apply some of those techniques with the next shirt I sew.  A picture of the shirt is shown below.

If you haven’t sewn a shirt yet, I hope you will try one.  You may want to make one for yourself first and then try making one for someone else.  It is important to get the pattern to fit before you cut your material.  Check your measurements first and then measure the pattern to see what changes you may need to make.  Remember to leave room for ease of movement.  There are lots of good books to help with fitting.  I suggest any of the three listed below:

Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto

The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen

Threads Fitting for Every Figure by the editors of Threads magazine

I also recommend Shirtmaking by David Coffin.  This book shows lots of great techniques to use when sewing a shirt. 

If you are fortunate enough to live near someone who is a good teacher of shirtmaking, I suggest you take a class.  I know two people who are really good.  One is Steven Pauling in Minneapolis, Minnesota.  The other is Bill Voetberg in the Grand Rapids, Michigan area.  He usually teaches at Lakeshore Sewing.

Good luck with whatever project you choose to sew.  Keep trying new techniques and improving your skills.

Judy