Not a Bowl of Cherries Knit Top

Last week I found a beautiful piece of aqua lightweight sweater-knit fabric in my stash.  I decided it was time to use it to make a top.  However, I did not want to use the pattern I have been using.  That pattern (McCall’s M6964) has bust darts.  I do not want bust darts in this new top because the fabric is a ribbed knit.  The fabric is made from a series of a number of knit stitches and then a number of purl stitches repeated throughout the fabric.  I think darts would be a distraction in this fabric.  I have another pattern (Kwik Sew 2900) that I have not used in a while.  It does not have darts. 

I was ready to cut out the new top while I was sewing at a friend’s house with a small group of sewers.  I did not want to take the time to thoroughly check the fit of the pattern, so I just held it up against my body and decided I needed to add ½ inch to the side seams and to the underarm seams of the sleeves.  I cut out the top and proceeded to sew it.  I think I mentioned in one of my other posts that sewing is not always a bowl of cherries.  In other words, things do not always go well.

There are a lot of variables in sewing, especially when sewing knits.  Knits do not all have the same amount of stretch.  There are other variables as well.  One is the weight of the knit.  Some are very thin; others are thick.  Some are slippery and some are stable.  All these factors play a part in the size of the pattern you need and the way the fabric will respond when you are sewing. 

The kind of needle you use in your sewing machine will also make a difference.  Usually, a ballpoint or jersey needle will work on knits.  A regular needle may also work.  If neither a regular or ballpoint needle works for you, you might try a microtex or stretch needle.  Try out the needle on a scrap of the fabric you are using before beginning to sew your garment.  I was able to use a regular size 80 needle in my machine when I sewed this top.

I sewed the shoulder seams together first and I remembered to place a piece of stabilizer in each of the shoulder seams to keep them from stretching.  You can purchase stabilizer in ½” wide rolls and it helps keep the shape of the shoulders.  I inserted the sleeves before sewing the sides together.  These went in easily without basting.  I decided to bast the side seams together because I was not sure of the fit.  I am glad I did.  It was a little large through the body.  I removed the basting and cut off the extra ½ inch I added previously.  I used my serger to serge the side seams and the underarm seams of the sleeves together. 

Next, I attempted to sew the neckband using the same technique I used in the past for most of my tee tops.  When I want a small narrow band, I like to sew a single layer of the right side of the band to the right side of the top and then fold that over to get the desired width.  I stitched in the seam on the front of the top to attach the back of the band to the top.    I had to rip out the first attempt because it looked terrible.  I got the same result with the second attempt.  The band by that time was beginning to shred.  I cut out another neckband and attached that by using a different method.  I doubled the band and sewed it to the neckline.  Then I pressed it and sewed again in the seam on the front to hold the seam down on the inside.  The finished band is about 5/8 inch wide.  I cut the band crosswise the knit because that had the most stretch.   

After hemming the bottom edge of the top and the sleeves, my “not a bowl of cherries top” was done.  I think you can see why this was not a bowl of cherries.  I had to spend some time ripping out and re-sewing, but I am glad I persevered!   I now have a nice aqua sweater-knit top that I will enjoy wearing.  A picture of the top is shown below.

 

Have you started your planning for adding items to your fall and winter wardrobe?  Have fun sewing!

Judy