How to Make Pants That Fit:  Part I       

Do you want to make pants that fit?  Are you willing to take the time to learn to make adjustments to the pants pattern before you cut into your fabric?  If so, then you will be on your way to successfully sewing pants that fit!  Let’s go through the process one step at a time. 

There are several methods to fit a pattern.  The one I like best is the one taught by Sarah Veblen.  She is the author of The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting.  Sarah teaches from her home in Maryland and also online at https://sewing.patternreview.com/.  Another method is the tissue fitting method.  That is the method used by Palmer Pletsch.  With that method, you tape the pattern together; try it on and make your adjustments before cutting your fabric.

I am going to use the Butterick B6910 pattern.  This is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern with instructions for using the tissue fitting method.   If you want to use this method, Butterick B6910 gives clear instructions on how to do it.  Just be sure to read the guide sheet thoroughly before beginning including the instructions for fitting written by the Palmer Pletsch people.  However, I am going to use the method taught by Sarah Veblen.  Therefore, I will compare my measurements with the finished measurements on the pattern and make adjustments to my pattern.  Then I will make a muslin to use for fitting the pants.   I prefer to make a muslin because then I can easily see any problems with the fit before I cut my fashion fabric.  You can also do that with the tissue fitting method, but I find it is easier for me to do it with a muslin.

After you have your pattern, choose your size based on your hip measurement.  The hip measurement is the fullest part of the hip area, usually about 7 –9 inches below the waist.  When measuring, wear the underwear you will wear under the pants.  This will be a snug measurement.  Don’t measure with your finger under the tape.  The pattern will have built-in ease. 

If your measurement is between two sizes, choose the smaller size.  There is usually enough ease in the pattern to do that.  However, if you have a very flat derriere, go to the larger size.  This will allow enough room to take a tuck in the pattern backpiece to adjust for your flat backside.  This pattern has a series of lines drawn on the back pants piece to use to take a tuck if there is too much fullness there.

Trace your pattern onto pattern paper.  I use a roll of paper commonly used in a doctor’s office to cover the exam table, but you could use any tissue paper including Perfect Pattern Paper from Palmer Pletsch.  I do this instead of cutting up the original pattern because I do not want to destroy it.   Make sure you trace all markings from the original pattern onto the one you copy. 

Now you are ready to make adjustments to the hip and waist area of the pants.   Most people don’t make any adjustment to the length until after all other adjustments are made.  However, I know from experience the pants will be 6 – 7 inches too long for me.  So, I shorten my front and back pattern pieces by three inches just to make it easier to check the fit of the muslin.  I know I will still need to shorten the pattern after I make all the other adjustments, but it will be easier with less fabric at my feet. 

The pattern allows one-inch seam allowances for the side seams and inseams.  You can use some of that one-inch seam allowance to make the pants larger if needed.

Measure the waist of the pants from seam line to seam line on both the front and back pieces and double that for the total waist measurement.  Do not include the amount covered by the dart area.  Compare your personal waist measurement to the waist area of the pattern.  That will tell you what amount you need to add or subtract from the pattern’s waist.  Take that amount and divide it by 4.     To increase the waist, measure out that amount from the side seam and redraw the side seam from the waist to the hip area.  Conversely, if you need to make the waist smaller, measure inward on the side seam by the amount needed and then redraw the side seam from the waist to the hip area.  If you know your personal front waist measurement is different than your back waist measurement, that adjustment can be made when you fit the muslin.

Before you add to or subtract from the front waist on Butterick B6910, you must pin the side front piece under the slanted pocket opening and add that piece at the waist.  The pattern guide sheet will show you how to pin it.   It is important to transfer all the markings on your pattern when copying from the original pattern.  You will need those markings on your copied pattern as well as on the fabric when it is cut.

Next, compare your measurements to the finished garment measurements at the hips.  Plain fitted pants usually have 2-3 inches of ease in the hips and classic trousers with slanted pockets usually have 4-8 inches of ease at the hips.    Measure the hip area on the pattern just as you did the waist.  Then compare your personal hip measurement to the pattern’s hip measurement to see if you need to add to or subtract from it.  Take that amount and divide it by 4.  Then measure out from each side seam and add that amount to each side seam on both front and back pattern pieces.  If you need to make the waist smaller, you would move the waist inward by that amount.  Then true that line from the waist to the hips. 

If you make adjustments to the waist on the front and back pattern pieces, you will also need to make the same adjustments to the right and left front waistbands as well as the back waistband piece at the side seams.  Butterick B6910 has a contour waistband.  With this type of waistband, most people prefer the top of the band at the belly button; however, you can fit it where you like.  I like to make that decision when I am fitting the muslin.

Now, after making adjustments to your pattern for the hips, waist, and waist band, you are ready to cut your muslin.  You can use actual muslin to do this or you can use some other fabric about the same weight as muslin.  Just make sure your markings can be clearly seen on the fabric.  It could be a piece of cotton that you no longer like and will never use.  This would be a good way to get some use from it.  Make sure you transfer all the markings from your pattern onto your muslin.  You won’t wear your muslin, so it is okay to use a ball point pen.  You want to use something that will not disappear because the markings will be essential to fitting your muslin.  Those marks should include any darts or pleats, notches, and any other marks that designate hipline, waistline, and lengthen and shorten lines.  Just make sure you transfer all markings.  Don’t overlook any of them.  The markings will make fitting your muslin much easier and more accurate. 

At the beginning of this post, I asked if you are willing to take the time to learn to make the adjustments necessary to successfully sew pants that fit.  Therefore, before you start fitting your muslin, you should do some research on how to do that.  Although I plan to write about how to fit the muslin in my next post, I can’t possibly cover everything about fitting a muslin in a blog post.  It would be helpful to you if you prepare by perusing some good sources on the subject. 

There are two books that I reccommend.  One is The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen.  She covers fitting pants on pages 192 – 211.  The other is Pants for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto.  The entire book is devoted to fitting pants.  Both books have lots of pictures and show how to make many adjustments.  If you don’t have either of these books, I suggest you contact your local library and see if they have a copy.  There are other books that address the issue of fitting pants and there is a lot of information on the subject available on the internet.  Try to familiarize yourself with an overview of fitting pants.

In my next post, I will begin by talking about sewing a muslin.  Then we will discuss how to make adjustments to the muslin and transfer those adjustments to your paper pattern.

Good luck with your pants fitting research.  Remember, there are lots of ways to fit pants.  You just need to know more about the subject and then pick the method that works best for you.  Most of us learn by doing.  So, educate yourself on the pants fitting process and then make some pants for your wardrobe.  You will improve your personal fitting process each time you make pants!

Judy