New Top for New Jacket

After I finished my white and hot pink jacket last month, I knew I needed a hot pink top to wear with it.  I decided to try a pattern by the Cutting Line Designs called "Back By Popular Demand".  The pattern includes a jean jacket and a short raglan sleeve top. 

I was surprised at the amount of ease included in this design.  I started fitting one size and had to start over with one size smaller.  I usually do a full bust adjustment as I find it is necessary with most patterns unless the designer includes that adjustment in the pattern.  I thought the pattern would fit better with bust darts, so I added those.  When I added the bust darts, I also did a full bust adjustment and that was a mistake.  A huge mistake!

Because I did not follow my own recommendations for fitting a pattern, I spent many hours trying to get the top to fit me.  I took-in some of the fabric from the front and back of the top near the underarms and even moved the center front line over a bit. The top was very easy to sew together.  The pattern has easy to follow instructions and goes together quickly.  Here are pictures of the top and the top with the jacket.

As usual, the hardest part of sewing any garment is the fitting process.  If I had followed my own tried and true  techniques for fitting a garment, I would not have experienced the problems I encountered. The techniques I recommend are listed below.

1.  Take your upper bust measurement and compare that to the bust measurements listed on the pattern.  Choose the bust measurement that most closely matches your upper bust measurement.  Don't worry about the pattern not fitting your full bust.  If you use your upper bust measurement, the garment should fit your shoulders and upper bust.  The garment will then hang correctly from the shoulders.  

2.  Copy that size of the top or blouse.  Then measure the bust, waist, and hip areas of your pattern from seam allowance to seam allowance in each of those areas.  

3.  You can then add or subtract to those three areas as needed.  You may want to search on line for how to do those additions or subtractions or look the adjustments up in one of the books I have previously recommended.  My two favorites are:

The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen and

The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting by Pati Palmer and Marto Alto.

In the future, I will make sure to follow my own recommendations when I fit another pattern.

I hope you are gaining experience with fitting and sewing.  Have fun!

Judy