Monday, November 26, 2018


Resources to Use to Improve Your Sewing Skills                            

Sometimes we need to take a break from sewing to think about how we can improve our sewing skills.  Of course, every time you sew an article is an opportunity to improve, but sometimes you need to make a dedicated effort to improve your skills by learning to use new tools or trying different techniques.  One avenue to explore is to attend a sewing expo if one is offered near you.  For years I attended the American Sewing Expo in Novi, Michigan every fall.  Unfortunately, that show went out of business after the expo in 2016. I enjoy attending sewing expos because it gives you a chance to see vendors from across the United States and sometimes Canada.  You can see new products as well as some other products you may not even know exist.   Sewing expos usually offer a variety of classes that may not normally be available where you live. 

We did not have a sewing expo in Novi in 2017, but we did have one this year.  It was the Original Sewing & Quilt Expo.  It was good to have another sewing expo in Novi, but it was definitely not as large as the other one.  Hopefully, they will return next year with more vendors.  I am thankful that Country Stitches of East Lansing supported the expo and provided machines for many of the classes. 

There was one vendor that really caught my attention.  It was DittoForm from Detroit, Michigan.  The company makes a computer scan of your body and then makes a dress form that is a “ditto” of you.  You can call the company to schedule an appointment for a scan.  The owner will also travel with the equipment to your location if you have a group of people who want a scan.  Our ASG chapter is considering asking her to do a presentation and/or scans for our group.   I would love to have one of these dress forms.  I think it would make fitting so much easier.  I will mention it on this blog if Carol Huls from DittoForm comes to Lansing to do a presentation/scans for us.

A second avenue to explore to improve your sewing skills is online resources.  You can get information and videos for almost any sewing technique by searching on line.  Some sources are better than others.  If I search for a “how to” for a technique, I will look at the information given by several different sources and then go with the one that has the clearest instructions and pictures or videos of the technique.  Several years ago, I searched for information on installing a fly front zipper.  I looked at several different sources and then went with the one that was easiest for me to understand.  I cut small samples for fly fronts and then practiced putting in zippers.  Practicing the technique works.  It gives you confidence that you know how to do it before you try the technique on a garment.

Another good source for online information about sewing is the American Sewing Guild’s website.  You can go to the website if you are not a member, but to get to the valuable sewing techniques information and videos, you must be a member.  Then you can go to the “Members Only” section of the website and get information.  I am guilty of forgetting about this great resource.  I need to make sure I am taking advantage of all the information available in the “Members Only” section of the ASG website.

Threads magazine also has videos and information that is available online only to members of its “Threads Insider” subscription service.  I am sure there are many others available to you if you take the time to do the research.

A third avenue to explore is classes either online or on site.  Local quilt shops and fabric shops offer classes.  Check their schedules for subjects you may want to pursue.  ASG chapters also offer classes occasionally and they usually offer presentations at their meetings that cover techniques and other sewing topics.  Websites such as Craftsy.com and some individual instructors offer online classes.  Try searching online for the class of your choice if you can’t find one in your local area.

And a fourth avenue to explore is books and magazines.  Books are available on almost any sewing subject you can imagine.  There are books on learning the basics of sewing, patternmaking, making clothes, sewing crafts, fitting patterns, and many different sewing techniques.  If you can name it, there is probably a book that tells you how to sew it. 


There are several good sewing magazines.  The two I know best are Threads and Sew News.  Both are sold in bookstores and on the rack at JoAnn Fabrics.  Both also sell subscriptions.  I have had a subscription to Threads for many years and it is the one subscription that I will never let expire.   I look forward to each edition and read it from cover to cover.   There is always so much sewing information in that magazine!  I even read the ads.

So, I hope you will take a break from sewing and think about the areas of sewing you wish to improve.  Determine where the resources are you need to use.  Take the time to research the best resource and take advantage of it.  Review the information and practice on a sample. After that, you are ready to plan to sew a garment or other article and put your new skill to work.

I wish you success on whatever project you decide to tackle!

Judy


Monday, November 12, 2018


Dave's Shirt  

When I decided to sew a shirt for my husband, I remembered fitting one for him several years ago.  I got distracted and put everything away to sew a different project.  I found the pieces of the shirt already cut and draped over a hanger in the closet.  A plastic envelope with the small pieces and a little extra fabric was attached to the hanger.  I also found the pattern which was Kwik Sew 3883.  It took a while to look at the pattern and pieces to determine what I had done in 2014 when I began the shirt.  It looked like I added a little to the sides to make sure the shirt covered his middle as well as a little to the yoke for his rounded back.  Unfortunately, I did not keep a record of the alterations I made to the pattern. 

I did a trial fitting before going any further.  I basted one piece of the yoke to the back and then basted the fronts to the back at the shoulders and side seams.  The shirt fit fine around his body if I used a quarter inch seam allowance.  There was not enough seam allowance for a French seam.   I would have preferred a larger seam allowance, but could not do anything to rectify that after the fabric was cut.  The ¼ inch seams will be okay for this test shirt.  I can change the seam allowances for the next one.  Then I will make a copy of the pattern with tag board.    I finished the side seams using my serger. 

The shirt I cut had a 16 ½ inch neck.  I may increase the next shirt to a 17 ½ inch neck.  I will see how it feels and looks when he wears the shirt and then make that decision. 

The instructions in Kwik Sew #3883 were clear and easy to understand.  I sewed the shirt exactly as indicated in the instructions.  I have learned a few shirt techniques from classes over the years, but I could not use them for this shirt because the pieces were already cut and I did not have enough fabric to re-cut the pieces.  I can apply some of those techniques with the next shirt I sew.  A picture of the shirt is shown below.






If you haven’t sewn a shirt yet, I hope you will try one.  You may want to make one for yourself first and then try making one for someone else.  It is important to get the pattern to fit before you cut your material.  Check your measurements first and then measure the pattern to see what changes you may need to make.  Remember to leave room for ease of movement.  There are lots of good books to help with fitting.  I suggest any of the three listed below:

Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto
The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen
Threads Fitting for Every Figure by the editors of Threads magazine

I also recommend Shirtmaking by David Coffin.  This book shows lots of great techniques to use when sewing a shirt. 

If you are fortunate enough to live near someone who is a good teacher of shirtmaking, I suggest you take a class.  I know two people who are really good.  One is Steven Pauling in Minneapolis, Minnesota.  The other is Bill Voetberg in the Grand Rapids, Michigan area.  He usually teaches at Lakeshore Sewing.

Good luck with whatever project you choose to sew.  Keep trying new techniques and improving your skills.

Judy







Saturday, October 27, 2018


Having Fun with Craft Projects   

After finishing my “accidental” coat, I decided I would work on a small craft project before returning to sewing clothes.  I decided to make some potholders and I had the perfect book for that.  In August while browsing in Country Stitches, I purchased Pot Holders for All Seasons by Chris Malone.  There were some cute potholders illustrated and the best part was there would be no fitting required.  No fitting definitely takes the stress out of sewing!  This was the project I needed to keep sewing, but relax a little at the same time.

I am going to use the potholders for a hostess gift at Thanksgiving.  I found the perfect pair to fit the situation in Potholders for All Seasons.   I chose “Riblets” for my first potholder.  It is a pig and is on page 19 in the book.  My hostess collects pig figurines and her husband is a pig farmer.  I chose “Catch of the Day” for the second potholder.  It is a fish and is on page 33 in the book.  My hostess and her family love to fish, so I think the fish will work well, too. 

Pictures of the two potholders and the front of the book are shown below.





My next clothing project will be a shirt for my husband.  My first step will be to fit a pattern to him.  I will let you know how that goes. 

I hope your projects are going well.  Keep sewing!  It is good exercise for the brain.

Judy


Sunday, October 14, 2018

Completion of My “Accidental” Winter Coat

I just completed my “accidental” winter coat.  I will try to explain why it is an accidental coat.  Each year the Lansing Chapter American Sewing Guild has a sewing challenge for the members.  This year the challenge was to sew something that we were inspired to make from a guild monthly presentation, a guild sponsored class, or a neighbor group.  The Sew Stylin’ Neighborhood Group worked on making coats, so I decided I would make a raincoat for my challenge.  The members will bring their challenge items to the October meeting and everyone with a completed article is entered into drawings for prizes.  Most of us try to complete an article for the challenge because the prizes are usually very good and who doesn’t like to win a prize!

The pattern I chose for my raincoat was Vogue pattern V8884.  As usual, my first job was to try to fit the pattern to me.  I planned to sew the coat at the guild’s sewing retreat which was held in Shipshewana, Indiana in August.  I was anxious to fit the pattern and get it cut so I could work on it at the retreat.  I traced the pattern on pattern paper and used muslin to make my first test garment.  Although a test garment is usually made from muslin, it can be made from any inexpensive fabric. 

I basted the main pieces of the fabric together so I could try it on and make any needed adjustments.  It was so large, I decided I should just start over with a smaller size.  I made some adjustments to the pattern before I cut it.  I raised the left shoulder and increased the bust just a little. 

I had only a little muslin left in my stash, so I decided to look for some other fabric for my second attempt at getting this coat to fit me.  I found some home decorating fabric I purchased from an auction many years ago.  It was just taking up space in my closet.   I knew it was too heavy for a raincoat, but it could be used for a winter coat.  I decided the pattern (Vogue V8884) could be used to make a winter coat just as well as a raincoat.  My other problem was I didn’t know how this fabric would look as a coat.  The pattern on the fabric was big and bold!  I really didn’t think the pattern would fit, so I decided to make it anyway.  If it didn’t fit, I would just throw it away and I would have some extra space in my closet with the fabric gone.  On the other hand, if it fit I would have another winter coat.  I decided to take the risk and make the coat!

I basted the main pieces of the pattern together so I could try it on to check the fit.  Although it fit, I still wasn’t sure I liked the bold print, so I took it to my Wednesday sewing group and tried it on for my sewing friends.  To my surprise, they liked the fabric.  Bev reminded me of an article in a recent edition of Threads magazine entitled “Fall Looks”.  The article by Erica Redfern was a fashion forecast of patterns and fabrics for Fall sewing.  Ms. Redfern stated “Don’t be afraid to stand out with loud prints or eye-catching details.  It’s about being unique and embracing your personal style.”  

If bold prints are predicted to be a fashion statement for the Fall by Threads, this coat should really make a statement!  I like things that are a little bit different and I think this coat could be described as different.  I decided maybe I actually like this accidental coat.  Although the coat was originally intended to be only a muslin to check the fit of the pattern, I think it will serve me well as winter coat. 

Pictures of the coat, a close-up of one of the buttons and pattern envelope are shown below.  I included the button because the buttons can't be seen in the picture of the coat.  It is a double-breasted coat, so it has eight buttons.  Also, the front yoke can't be seen because of the pattern in the fabric.







I can still use the pattern to make a raincoat.  I already have the water repellent fabric I purchased from Field’s Fabric.  Now I can cut the fabric and know the pattern will fit.  I will post a picture of the raincoat when it is completed.

I hope you will get busy making your Fall and Winter sewing projects.  You will need them soon!

Judy






Friday, October 5, 2018


72 Outfits from a 12-Piece Wardrobe!    -      

As I indicated in my last post, the 12-piece wardrobe is finally finished.  Now I need to devise a way to show you how I determined this number without posting 72 pictures.  I think I will show a picture of all 12 pieces and then explain which pieces I used to make the 72 outfits. 

Here are pictures of the 4 bottom pieces (3 pants and 1 skirt).









                             








These are the pictures of the 6 tops.



























And these are the two jackets.
















I used all 6 tops with the navy pants; all 6 tops with the wine pants, and all 6 tops with the beige pants.  Then I used all 6 tops with the navy skirt.  That makes 24 outfits using the 6 tops with each of the 4 bottom pieces.

Then I added the white jacket to each of those 24 outfits.  That brings the total to 48 outfits. (24 + 24).

Next, I added the beige jacket to each of the outfits consisting of the 4 bottom pieces and the 6 tops. 
(48 + 24) 

That brought the total to 72 outfits! (48 + 24)

This is the second time I have sewn a 12-piece coordinated wardrobe.  I am ready to move on to something different!  I am looking forward to sewing and blogging about whatever comes to mind and not be limited to one big project.

I do have one other project I am currently sewing and it must be completed by Oct. 15th.  That is a winter coat I am making for this year’s “Challenge” for the Lansing Chapter, American Sewing Guild.  I worked on the coat at the guild’s sewing retreat in August.  I haven’t touched it since then so I really need to get busy on it.  I plan to post a picture of the coat when it is finished.  After that, I am not sure what direction I will take with my sewing.  Regardless, I love to sew!  I just need a little time to decide what I want to pursue next.

I hope you are giving lots of thought and time to all your sewing projects!

Judy

Thursday, October 4, 2018


12th Piece of Coordinated Wardrobe is Finished!  -

Finally, this project is complete!  I enjoyed making the wardrobe, but I am glad is it done.  I was always pushing to meet some self-imposed deadline for completing each piece.  Other responsibilities kept getting in the way of my deadlines.  Those other responsibilities were probably much more important than just completing an article of clothing to post on my blog.  On the other hand, I do take my commitment to my blog seriously.  So, I had to find a way to meet all my responsibilities.  

Anyway, the wardrobe is complete.  Now let me tell you about the 12th piece.  It is a simple, beige jacket with no closures.  It should go with everything.  The pattern is McCall’s M5668.    The jacket has princess seams with slits at the sides and three-quarter length sleeves with slits.  The center fronts are self-faced and the sleeves are lined.  Pictures of the pattern envelope and the finished jacket are shown below.




I had not used this pattern previously, so I spent a lot of time fitting it.  I made two muslins before I started the final jacket!  I hope eventually my fitting skills will get better and I will not spend so much time fitting new patterns.  Of course, it would help if I would use the same patterns and just change them a little.  This is something I intend to do in the future!  I used fabric for the jacket from my stash.  I have no idea where I bought the fabric or exactly what the fabric is.  I know it is mostly cotton, but it does have just a little stretch.  I also had fabric in my stash for the lining.  The only item not in my stash was the pattern. 

Tomorrow I will post an article showing the total number of outfits I can make from the 12 pieces in the wardrobe. 

Until then, I wish you luck on all of your sewing projects. 

Judy


Thursday, September 13, 2018


Completion of 11th Wardrobe Piece – Light Blue Shirt

I used the same computer-generated pattern for this shirt as the one I used for the scrappy plaid blouse and the navy print cotton shirt.  I worked on this shirt at the recent American Sewing Guild Lansing Chapter’s sewing retreat in Shipshewana, Indiana.  However, I took it home to put the finishing touches on it.

I needed to make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons.  I thought this was the perfect time to try one of the decorative buttonhole stitches in my Pfaff Creative Icon sewing machine.  I decided to sew a few buttonholes to see which was best for this shirt.  I used some of the same fabric I used for the shirt and applied the same interfacing I used for the front facing.   Using navy thread, I embroidered buttonhole no. 124 and then used a medium blue thread for no. 123 from the “mini” embroidery section in my machine.   A close-up photo of both buttonholes is shown below.  I liked both buttonholes, but both were too large for my shirt.
 




Being anxious to complete the 12-piece wardrobe, I decided to move on and just sew regular  buttonholes and perhaps embroider a separate design between them.  I located an embroidery design of three small flowers which was also in the “mini” embroidery section of my machine.  I decided to embroider that design between where each buttonhole would be sewn on my shirt.   I pulled back the front facing before I embroidered the design so the back of the embroidery would be hidden inside the facing.  Then I sewed a regular buttonhole through the shirt and facing between each embroidery design.  I also placed one of the small flowers on each of the collar points.  A picture of the finished shirt and closeups of the embroidered designs are shown below.







There is just one piece of this wardrobe to complete and that is the tan jacket.  I am trying a different pattern so it will take a little extra time to check the fit.  I hope to complete the jacket soon.  I believe I will be able to get close to 72 outfits from the 12-piece wardrobe.  I will explain how this is accomplished as soon as I complete the jacket.  Please stay tuned!

Judy